Kishkindha – Sugriva’s Great City

Introduction

This pictorial story folks, was intended to follow the article "Advaita IV" of 27th January, but then it somehow got put aside for a while. To recap, in that post I had taken the Ramayana story as an example of the "fantastical" events and characters that we often come across in Scripture, that even the staunchest of devotees would struggle to explain in a literal sense; unless the help of Advaita's great truths is taken.

I had thought then to do a little piece on the glorious Ramayana itself, leaving the logical stuff aside. One of my great childhood memories is of listening with joy to the mellifluous verses of the Tulsidas Ramayana being sung with utter devotion by a bhajan mandali (group of singers of devotional songs) which used to come to our home every now and then.

And so this post - on a very memorable visit to Kishkindha, the great city of Sugriva and the Vanaras.


Kishkindha Nagari (town)

Its rather sad that few of the physical locations for the Ramayana story, as existing today, can be confirmed as authentic beyond any doubt.  For a start, few sites match the physical descriptions as given in the epic. For instance, where exactly was Lanka, made entirely of gold? Or even Ayodhya? [For the latter, those who may have taken interest in this controversial topic, would know that sceptical scholars hold that the present town of that name was actually the Buddhist monk-city called “Saket”; that it was identified as Ayodhya only in the 5^th Century CE by the great Kumaragupta I of the Guptas. Then, we know as a historical fact, that there were 5 to 6 rivers called “Sarayu” in the north during different periods in ancient times. So is the present Ayodhya, on the banks of the present Sarayu, the real one? Personally, having been to the holy town dozens of times during childhood with the folks, when it was a peaceful haven of spirituality, I have not the slightest doubt as to its authenticity].   
   
But there is one place where the natural views stunningly match, exactly, the descriptions of it as given in the Ramayana itself: and that is Kishkindha, the great city of Sugriva and the Vanaras.  The visitor encounters an almost alien landscape of peculiar stones, boulders, hillocks etc. interspersed with the richest black soil which exists anywhere. On first sight of the spectacular views, anyone who has read Valmikiji’s magnificent Sanskrit (try the brilliant Gita Press edition of the Ramayana in 2 volumes, Sanskrit and English) describing the topography of the Kishkindha area, will know instantly that this is indeed what is being described.

Of course, we all are familiar with the place as the great medieval city of Vijayanagar, or Hampi.


My Visit

I was blessed to visit this unique place in 2004. Though it had always been a "must visit" site for me, my interest had been piqued when my dad told me how the Kanchi Paramacarya had spent several months camped there with a view to personally identifying the many holy Ramayana sites around in the area. Actually, it had been news to me to hear of how the great Sage from the intensely conservative Saivite Matham, had an enormous interest in the Ramayana, and Lord Rama.

[I found this write up just recently on the internet (from the book “Pujyasri Chandrasekharendra Sarasvati Swami”, compiled and edited by Sri A. Kuppuswamy):

“... Reaching Hampi on the 24th October, 1978, the Acharya camped in the Vidyaranya Math for some days. One of these days, His Holiness saw the carvings of Ramayana in the Hazare Ramaswamy temple, on the way to Kamalapuram. On the 28th of the month the Acharya visited Pampasarovar, Sabari Ashramam, Rishyamukha, Hemakutam, Malyavantam etc., all situated within a radius of about 6 kms. After darshan at the Lakshmi Temple and visiting Sabari-Guha, the Acharya stayed at Pampasarovar. There a group of Bairagis completed Akhanda Tulasi Ramayana parayanam (recital), four months after starting it. The 15th of November was the last day of the Tula month and people of Tamil Nadu bathe in the sacred Kaveri on that day. The bath is known as “Kadamuzhukku”- thereby signifying that it was the last day of bathing in the Kaveri during that month. His Holiness had bath in the Tungabhadra, peformed japam, and then returned to his camping place. Till about the 21st of April, 1979, the Acharya covered visiting many places, having Hampi as the centre of his movements.”]

Hampi is an amazing place in many ways. There is of course the great overhang of tragic history, of slaughter and destruction in medieval times; but also a palpable sense of sanctity and holiness which is easily felt by the sincere devotee spending time in any of the many holy spots around. Most of the tourists but, stick to the well-known places only - the great Virupaksa Temple, the Royal buildings, the Vitthala temple complex, the great Broadstreet etc. A lot of visitors, sadly, also appear to be of the type who worship the “weed”. And it makes for the most incongruous of sights to find completely spaced-out locals and foreigners hanging around in what are actually some of the most sacred of places. Only some of the visitors even know that the city was constructed around Kishkindha nagari of yore. And certainly the place will profoundly move anyone who is even slightly ‘touched’ by the Ramayana. Even for those not so, in the inky black nights there, when you can literally hear your thoughts in the amazing deathly silence all around, you will find that Vichara happens on its own.

Following then are pictures of the holy Ramayana sites in Hampi (other temples, the royal structures etc are not taken up). So sorry, the images are not of digital quality. They are scanned copies of the photographs taken with my old camera. The specific sites covered are:

 

Matanga Parvata (hill)     where Matanga Rishi’s Ashram was & where Sugriva stayed to escape from Vali

Malyavanta Parvata         where Sri Rama & Lakshmanji stayed during chaturamasa (the rainy season)

                                   

Anjane Parvata                 where Anjani Mata’s cave is - birthplace of Lord Hanuman

 

Rsyamukha Parvata         Actual site of Kishkindha nagari 

Kodanda Rama Temple   where Sri Ram anointed Sugriva as King of Kishkindha

 

"Yantra" Hanumanji        where Sri Ram & Lakshmanji met Hanumanji for the first time

Temple                               

 

Chakratirtha                      where Pampa river (Tungabhadra) turns northwards – where Matanga Rishi,
                                             Shabari Mata, Sri Rama, Lakshmanji, Hanumanji & all the Ramayana characters would
                                             have bathed

 

Sugriva’s Cave                  where Sugriva hid Sita Mata’s clothes & jewels dropped from the vimana as She was being
                                            taken away by Ravana

 

Chintamani Ashram       from where Sri Ram fired the lethal arrow at Vali

Vali Kasta                          where Vali was cremated & where his ashes lay for a long time;   very difficult to locate as
                                             the huge pile has been almost fully levelled by the locals for farming

 

Vali Kila                             Vali's Fort, behind the Durga Devi temple - where Vali had his kingdom in the Satya Yuga

Pampasarovar                  The Pampa lake, as described in the Ramayana

 

Shabari Ashram               where Shabari Mata waited for Lord Rama; abutting Pampasarovar

 

Rsyamukha Hill - actual site of Kishkindha, on the other side of
Tungabhadra river from the ancient bathing ghat seen in front -
Chakratirtha; the city is said to lie inside the Hill. No one is
allowed on this hillock. Those who go there ignoring  the
injunction, apparently become mad or do not come back at all. 

Rsyamukha Hill - another view.
The Tungabhadra river in front.

Chakratirtha - the ancient holy bathing ghat where the Tungabhadra
river has a bend to the north; just opposite Rsyamukha Hill

The amazing views on the banks of the Tungabhadra river, small
shrines & pavilions in this area just opposite Rsyamukha Hill



Again, on the banks of the Tungabhadra; a fascinating
landscape of boulders and ancient carvings all around. 

Amongst the boulders along the banks of Tungabhadra -
a carving of Sri Visnu lying on the Serpent Ananta



And again; groups of tiny Sivalingas for specific rituals can be seen
 cut in the rockbase. In front are 108 Lingams, behind 1008!



A close up of the 1008 Lingams

Again, the boulder strewn scenery
around the banks of the Tungabhadra

View of the Chakratirtha area from the Yantra Hanuman Temple, a little
higher up from the ghat. This tiny chapel-like temple marks the spot
where Sri Hanuman met Sri Rama & Lakshmanji for the first time. It
houses  one of the most extraordinary & rare images I have ever seen -
a massive Sri Hanumanji Yantra on a vertical granite slab as the main
image of worship in the sanctum-sanctorum. The "Chakra" or
wheel-like shape of the Yantra gave the name "Chakra-tirtha"
to the ancient ghat below. 

View of the river Tungabhadra river slightly downstream
from Chakratirtha. Anjane Parvata seen across the river

Images in the Kodanda Rama Temple at the corner of Chakratirtha; this 
marks the spot where Sri Rama crowned Sugriva as the king of Kishkindha

Lovely old tree in front of the Kodanda Rama Temple; ancient Nagakals
all around, Tungabhadra river & Rsyamukha Hill can be seen behind



A little downstream from Chakratirtha is
"Sugriva's Cave" - where he hid Sita Mata's
jewellery as She threw them from Ravana's
Vimana flying above. The peculiar lines on
the stones are said to be the marks of
Sita Mata's clothes dragging on the ground,
and extend for 100's of metres all around.

Inside Sugriva's cave, a little shrine with images of
Sri Ram, Sita Mata, Laksmanji & Hanumanji

Matanga Parvata - where Sugriva lived to escape
from Vali; Matanga Rishi's Ashram on top

 

 

 

 

Views near Matanga Parvata - the Achuta Raya Temple bazaar street

 

Matanga Parvata - looking up from
its base; old structure on peak

On Matanga Parvata - the view from 1/3rd up facing Virupasha Temple

On Matanga Parvata - view from 1/2 way up; Virupaksha in the distance

 

 

 

 

On Matanga Parvata - view from the top; steps
on the way down from the rear side



On Matanga Parvata - the deserted structure on top;
said to be where Matanga Rishi had an Ashram

 

Malyavanta Hillock - where Sri Rama and Lakshmanji stayed for
the rainy months of chaturmasa & later, awaiting news of Sita Mata;
the lovely images in the Malyavanta Raghunatha Temple there.

Malyavanta Hillock - actual Cave in which Lord Rama and
Lakshmanji lived; the access to this spur is from a (usually locked)
gate behind the Raghunatha Temple, which is below this point. 

Sivalinga inside the above Cave - said to have been
worshipped by Lord Rama

Inside the same Cave - Nandiji

View from the Cave/hillock - this is what Lord Rama & Lakshmanji
would have seen every day during their stay in the Kishkindha area;
 in the distance is Matanga Parvata 

 

Another view from the Cave - towards "Rama Jharoka". This is the name 
of the pavilion seen on another spur. The structure is medieval, but marks
the spot where Lord Rama would climb everyday and morosely check
in all directions for signs of the Vanaras returning with news of Sita Mata.

 

 

 

"Rama Jharoka" as above

Cleft in the rocks near the Cave, filled with water; it was created by
Lakshmanji by firing an arrow at the rock. It never dries up. This
was the main water source for Sri Rama & him. Note the Sivalingams
carved parallel to the cleft for worship of the holy water/cleft. 

 

Anjane Parvata - the birth place of Hanumanji.
This is on the other side of the river. Note the
structure on top - Anjani Mata Temple. Also
the criss-cross white lines going up - the
stairs up the hill.

 

 

 



Anjane Parvata - the steps for the
stiff climb up.

 

 

 

Anjane Parvata - on the way up one can see many caves.
Plenty of Vanaras around!

 

 

 

 

Temple of Anjani Mata, Mother of Lord Hanuman

 



 

 

Lovely image of Anjani Mata inside;
note the tiny figure of the infant
Hanumanji in Her hands

 

 

 

 

The actual cave inside the temple
where Hanumanji was born

 

 

 

 

Inside the cave above, an image of Sri
Hanuman in the "chapet" posture.

 

 

View of the countryside from Anjane Mata  Temple - towards Hampi

Another view from top of Anjane Parvata

 

 

 

 

Pampasarovar - as mentioned in the
Ramayana; Shabari Mata lived here

 

 

 

Pampasarovar - another view

 

 

 

 

Pampasarovar - another view

 

 

Anjane Parvata as seen from near Pampasarovar



Chintamani Ashram - from where Sri Ram fired the lethal arrow at
Vali; the ashram is on the river bank on the other side from Hampi.

 

 

Chintamani Ashram, another view

Chintamani Ashram - a cave inside used for meditation

 

 

The actual spot abutting the river, from where
Sri Rama fired His lethal arrow at Vali. Can you
make out the bow and arrow carved in the
rock just ahead of the pedestal?

A longer shot of the above; Tungabhadra river
 in front



A view from the same spot of the area across the river; "Vali Kasta", the
site for the ashes of Vali, lies somewhere in the greenery just ahead.

 

 

"Vali Kasta". The solidified ashes of Vali lie
beneath the hay and green cover. This site is
quite difficult to find. I happened to meet a
village lady by chance who led me to this spot.
 She also insisted in giving me a few of the
peculiar "kasta" rocks. They look like
fossilized-stone pieces of some sort. 

"Vali Kila" - said to be the location of Vali's old fort.
Inside are tombs of several of the Vijayanagar kings. 

 

 

 

Vidyaranya Swami Math area - behind the Virupaksha Temple. This
portion is not in use now. (Not connected with the Ramayana sites,
but could not resist putting up a few pictures relating to the great
Sage, Head Priest to the Vijayanagar kings, and author of several
seminal Advaita texts).

The Kanchi Paramacarya stayed in these pavilions during his camp at
Hampi. I know for a fact (from my dad - who had/has close contact with
the Kanchi seers), that he regarded Vidyaranya Swami as the greatest of
the philosopher-sages, i.e. after Sri Sankara.

Sri Vidyaranya Swami Samadhi Shrine  in the
Matham. (usually kept locked).

[Because there is some confusion nowadays
in  that there may have been two Swamis with
similar names who may have authored the
great texts, it seems there is also some
confusion as to which Vidyaranya Swami's 
Samadhi this actually is. Unfortunately, not
knowing Tamil or Kannada, I just could not
figure out what the priests there were
animatedly telling me. If anyone can
throw some light on this, please do put up
a comment below.]

 

Vidyarana Swami's "palki" kept in the Matham there. This
was used by him to move around in the city.

Inside the palki are kept his personal items incl.
his "Khadaon" - wooden slippers.

In Conclusion

Folks, the foregoing is probably a pretty clumsy attempt to convey the great sanctity associated with this holy kshetra. And I have not even touched upon some of the other very holy places that abound there. In my humble opinion, this place gives back to you what you take to it. If, like most of those who visit, the intention is "touristy", then you can have a great fun time but nothing more. But if you go as a pilgrim and sadhaka, the place will touch you to the core.  

 

Again, a very humble effort at sharing folks. As always, look forward to your comments below!


 -------------------------------------


Addendum [on 23.7.2013]


A Story

The Hampi area is vast and the sites are scattered over many km. The distances to get to anywhere from anywhere are huge, and a vehicle is absolutely essential to do any meaningful exploring. So, I had engaged a local auto-rickshaw fellow on a dedicated basis to take me around during the day. He got the job basically as he knew some Hindi and English, though he thought he got it because of his background, proudly stated, that he belonged to a local community which traced its ancestry to the court servitors of the Vijayanagar kings. Whatever be his actual background, he turned out to be a treasure trove of fascinating stories to tell on our long drives all over the place. One of them came about when I asked him what his people thought had happened to the great Vanaras of Kishkindha.

He said that in his community they tell the following legend to the children sometimes as a bedtime story:

The great king Vali was not only a great warrior, but also a siddha with enormous occult powers. And when he was brought down by Sri Rama’s great arrow, he cursed Sugriva and Kishkindha nagari. He was deeply hurt and angry that none of the Vanaras had stood by him, which as the citizens of his city they were beholden to do, whether his actions were right or wrong. And so, even though his own son, Angad, was confirmed as crown prince by Sri Rama, Vali in his blind rage uttered a most terrible curse - that within a short time Kishkindha would turn to stone, and the great Vanaras into boulders that would lie scattered here and there! And so, all the fascinating boulders we see piled up all over the area, of amazing shapes and sizes, are all actually the great Vanaras of yore!

He went on to add that that is why none of the locals will venture anywhere close to the big hilly piles at night, because sometimes, when it is late, they come back to life temporarily and can be seen as Vanaras again. And that it has been observed that inexplicably, sometimes, a pile of rocks would have shifted a bit overnight, that a boulder which was near the bottom, was now found right at the top and so on. And in the night amongst the boulders, sometimes, funny, powerful, growling sort-of voices can be heard talking in an unknown language!

[Hampi is anyway an uncanny sort of place, particularly for the sites connected to the Ramayana, which are somewhat off the tourist beat. They are usually deserted, and after the early morning puja not even a pandit is to be found hanging about. And their locations in the desolate, boulder areas, in the midst of unusual topography, ensures that they have a strong uncanny sort of ambience about them. I could well understand how in the night these boulder areas would present an unimaginable “spookiness” factor, leading to all sorts of stories coming about.  In fact, the area behind Matanga Parvata and the deserted structure on top, according to my driver, are some of the most haunted of places one can find anywhere.]

Still, I found the driver’s story fascinating enough to check it out for myself. I was out amongst the boulders and hilly piles one night till about 1.30 am. There is an inky blackness and an unearthly silence at night there. Then, you could well believe yourself to be the only living being in the universe, as not one bird, monkey or even a rodent is to be seen. And the boulders do make all sorts of funny noises, perhaps from the wind whistling through the cracks, or due to the warm rocks cooling down at night and making crackling sounds. And, after about an hour sitting in their midst, the boulders do tend to look like so many gigantic Vanaras sitting there solemnly looking at you! I guess that’s the imagination starting to run riot after a while.

So, I could confirm to my driver the next day that the boulders don’t turn into Vanaras at night, though they certainly have an uncanny presence about them. Not that he was convinced in the slightest, though he was quite amazed at my little night-time outing otherwise. All he said was – what could I expect in a mere hour or two out amongst the rocks? Try spending a whole night out there, he said, particularly on an amavasya (moonless) night. And that folks, I would never do!

Piles of boulders (behind) as seen from Matanga Parvata,
Vanaras perhaps, frozen in time due to Vali's curse!
[pic is taken from the Karnataka Tourism
website - Karnatakatourism.org]